Playa Del Carmen and Tulum, MEXICO

There has been much abuzz about Tulum and Playa Del Carmen over the last ten years or so.  Dubbed the "Mayan Riviera" by travel agents, it's the stretch of Caribbean coastline south of Cancun.  A bit more effort than flying direct to an island and staying at an all inclusive for a week, but perfect for anyone hoping to avoid monotony and do a bit of light sight seeing (while living at the beach for a week).  

 

TULUM

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

A quick sneeze-and-you're-there flight to Cancun.  Hop in a rental car and head south on highway 307. After about 45 mins you will start to see the colossal resorts that line highway 307 (Mayakoba, Mandarin, Occidental).  We chose to stay at  Gran Porto Real, in the center of Playa del Carmen, where the main drag (Ave de Constituyentes) meets the beach.  It allowed us to walk to anywhere in Playa, including the beach bars and shops along 5th ave.  But the beach is public.  If you prefer the walled-in feel of a private resort, look for one on 307 that offers shuttle service to town.

Gran Porto Real is an all inclusive resort with two restaurants outside the resort, just feet away on the Ave de Constituyentes.  There is a beach-adjacent pool with a bar, and lunch is served on the beach daily.  We paid slightly less for a room facing the street, but the noise didn't deter us from enjoying in the balcony hammock.  PDC has an active nightlife consisting mostly of these semi-outdoor bars that line the beach.  5th ave hosts everything from shops to yoga, and Cozumel is a quick ferry ride away.  We only stayed in PDC for one night; Tulum was the main attraction for us.

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TULUM RUINS

PDC is about halfway between Cancun and Tulum, so another 45 min drive and you will start to see signs for the Tulum Ruins.  It took us about an hour to walk the ruins. They were fascinating and surreal, with their Caribbean ocean backdrop.  The complex is substantial and totally shadeless, so bring provisions or visit it at night!

DON DIEGO POOL AND DINING ROOM

For no other reason then to cut costs, we stayed in town for the first 3 nights of our trip.  Don Diega de la Selva offered a ton more for the money.  At $75/night, we had our own palapa (fancy hut) with private bathroom. This included breakfast - which at Don Diego means french coffee and fresh baked bread. They also serve lunch and dinner, and have a small bar - all of which can be enjoyed by the POOL  We spent our Don Diego days sight seeing under the blinding Mexican sun, so we took full advantage of the pool in the afternoons.  Don diego is a small hotel, with a dozen or less rooms.  Our palapa was cooled by a ceiling fan and open windows, but there are also rooms with AC.  They are a bit smaller and less private, so consider your preference when booking. 

There are plenty of places to eat and shop in town.  Standouts for us were El Pequena Buenos Aires (Argentinian) and Urge Taquito.  The food at Don diego is also excellent - a french take on local fare, and they make delicious Mojitos and Caprihinas.  There was also this smoothie place on the same side of the street as El Pequena, that i was mildly obsessed with.  There are a number of booths nearby that sell leather bags and hammock chairs.  Everything costs less in town then it does at the beach, so stock up while you're there.


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PLAYA ROAD

To get to the beach take Playa Road.  After about a mile of total sparseness you will start to see hotels, which continue for miles and miles until they end at the Biosphere.  You will see a few small shops early on.  Many walk or taxi to them from their hotel, so consider proximity when choosing your accommodations.

MAYA TULUM

Our last 2 nights we stayed at Maya Tulum, situated in the middle of the strip.  For $150 a night we had a "garden view" room, which meant we were furthest from the beach but not without a view of it.  We had a spacious palapa with a seating area facing the ocean,  as well as a lovely private bathroom.  Many of the beach hotels have communal bathrooms and use generators at night (candle light), so do your research if you're used to being "pampered".  Maya Tulum is known for their yoga retreats and healthy menu, not for their parties.  But next door at Zamas the party goes well into the night, and they often have live music.  Ana y Jose has a swanky outdoor area, perfect for lunch on the beach.  Hemmingway has a romantic beach side dining room, where there is no menu - you chose your meal.  Undoubtedly, our favorite meals were dinners at El Tabano, a Spanish restaurant located on the jungle side of Playa Road.  The food is fresh and often picked from their garden, the menu changes daily, and the wine is always so good.


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There is quite a bit to see and do while in Tulum.  Our sight seeing totally ceased once we checked into Maya Tulum, having crammed so much into the first three days.  Here are the highlights!

YAL KU LAGOON

 Akumal and Yal ku Lagoon... Heading north on 307.  Take a right at the traffic light for Akumal and you will enter a surprisingly modern village, with restaurants and shops.  Follow the road through Akumal, as it bears left, and look for signs for Yal ku Lagoon.  Yal ku is a piercingly blue freshwater lagoon that you can snorkel and explore (equipment rentals available).  Traveling back through Akumal, we stopped for lunch at Turtle Bay Cafe and Bakery, then for a drink and sunworship at beautiful  beachfront Lol-Ha.

Aktun Chen.... Heading south on 307, back towards Tulum. Take a right at the sign for Aktun Chen and follow the never ending dirt road to the parking lot.  Aktun chen has a zip line, swimming in the cenotes (not diving) and the cave.  A guided tour of the cave takes about 40 minutes.  Expect to see an unspoiled, underground city of stalactites/stalagmites.  There is a small zoo at Aktun, which when we were there included a monkey named Chiapsy, who loved to be held. 

COBA

Coba:  There are a number of ruins in Tulum to choose from, we landed on Coba.  It's a 40 min drive through some "authentic" Mexican villages, one of which has a mango stand that we still talk about to this day (mostly regret, "why didnt we get 10??").  There are no gas stations between Tulum and Coba, so gas up ahead of time.  Coba is like a state park with no signs or kiosks (this is because they want you to hire a guide).  My beau had printed a map and basic info back in NY (nerd), so we had a self guided experience. I recommend either renting bicycles upon entering or utilizing the pedicabs, especially for those long stretches between ruins.  Wear shoes (not flip flops), preferably ones with rubber soles. Go either in the morning or the late afternoon - midday temperatures are brutal.  Don't climb the first pyramids you see, these are puny compared to the grand finale.  You will pass them all on your way out, so should you feel like you didn't climb enough...    knock yourself out.


Xel-ha:  Xel-ha is like a Mexican Sea World, only minimally man-made. They offer snorkeling, scuba, swimming with Dolphins, tubing, biking... i could go on.  If you are car-less, they have buses.  If you are care-less, they have a spa.  We preferred the quietness of Yal ku, but had we been traveling with kids or a big group, Xel-ha would have made the itinerary and is therefore worth a mention.


Xcaret - is another Mexican water park, this one more proximal to Playa del Carmen.


Biosphere - at the end of Playa Road you will find the Sian Kaan Biosphere.  We tried on several occasions to fit it into the trip, but it is a bit of a time suck and also expensive.  For anyone staying at the beach, this would be an easy adventure.


Cenotes - these underground fresh water caverns are a huge attraction, especially with those who have experience scuba diving.  I don't breathe underwater, so we skipped it.  But we did get to stand next to one at Aktun Chen, deep into the cave.  The Hidden Worlds Adventure Park has cenotes, as well as this zip line that you peddle your way through.


Windsurfing/Kiteboarding - Playa Azul, another hotel on the beach, offers windsurfing/kiteboarding lessons.  We sat and watched in amazement, while enjoying a few beers. 

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What to expect:
Cancun reminds me of Ft Lauderdale...
Playa del Carmen reminds me of South beach...
Tulum is unlike any other.  I often wonder what it would have been like had we gone straight to Maya Tulum and stayed there the whole trip.  I think it would have been extremely relaxing and peaceful, but a totally different experience from the one we had, and also quite a bit more money to just sit on our keisters for a week.  Eating three meals a day at the beach can be costly, add to that drinking.  Town is a mixed bag, but i never felt unsafe or uncomfortable and doing all the site seeing made those last three days on the beach all the more enjoyable and deserved.   Choose your own adventure!!

Logistics:
I recommend you exchange your US dollars for pesos at the Scotiabank in town.  You can pay with US everywhere, but they will give you change in pesos and at a lower exchange rate than the bank.  Bring travelers checks, you can pay your hotel with these and it's safer then carrying a wad of cash.  Store your passports in your hotel's safe and only carry a small amount of cash and your ID, whenever driving anywhere.  The cops in Mexico wont hesitate to take everything, should you get pulled over.
Be aware of the fact that you can get sick in Mexico.  Frozen drinks are a gamble, as is salad or anything rinsed and raw.  We ate a lot of bananas and things with skin.  We also brought antibiotics, pepto, etc. and were grateful we did since one of us got sick.

GRAN PORTO REAL

GRAN PORTO REAL

BEACH BAR PDC

TULUM RUINS

OUR PALAPA AT DON DIEGO

POOL SIDE AT DON DIEGO

DINING ROOM AT DON DIEGO

YAL KU LAGOON

YAL KU LAGOON

CHIAPSY AT AKTUN CHEN

CENOTES AT AKTUN CHEN

COBA

COBA FINALE

TOP OF COBA FINALE

SWEAT LODGE AT MAYA TULUM

MAYA TULUM

BEACH AT MAYA TULUM

EL TABANO

EL TABANO

TULUM MAP

PDC MAP

Day Tripping: Fahnestock State Park

I discovered Fahnestock when my dog's bathroom emergency forced me to pull off the Taconic Pkwy, one summer afternoon.  What a delightful surprise, to find a magnificent 14,000 acre state park right there!  We return annually.

PELTON POND

 A little more then an hours drive from the city, take the 301W/Cold Spring exit off the Taconic.  Turn left onto 301and left into the parking area for Pelton Pond.  The Pelton Pond trail is a 1.5 mile long loop around the pond, with lots of spots for the dogs to jump in.  They have a picnic area, a pavilion and a "bathroom", should you need it.

CANOPUS LAKE

Canopus Lake, just opposite Pelton Pond on 301, is an excellent spot for swimming and sunbathing.  If you find the beach boring or too crowded, rent a rowboat and go nap out in the middle of the lake.  No dogs allowed :(

VIEW OF STORM KING MOUNTAIN FROM BREAKNECK

There are several places to launch a kayak in the park, Canopus Lake being one of them.  There is also camping, should you chose not to leave.  But sites are small and not well spaced out.  Breakneck Ridge, on the northern end of the park, is a more challenging hike in that it's predominantly vertical.  It offers breath taking views of the Hudson River, Storm King Mountain/Cornwall, and is minutes from Beacon - home of the Dia.

COLD SPRING

For a post hike reward, follow 301 to the village of Cold Spring (< 10 min).  Cupoccino (not a misspell) is a cute little coffee shop with free wifi, homemade biscotti and ice cream.  Or if you prefer an adult beverage, try the Cold Spring Depot. 

BEAR MOUNTAIN BRIDGE

Rather then return to the Taconic, take 9D south to the Bear Mountain Bridge for stunning views of the Hudson in both directions. Once across, you can take the Palisades south to the GWB.

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PELTON POND TRAIL

PELTON POND

CANOPUS LAKE BEACH

CANOPUS LAKE BEACH

COLD SPRING

BREAKNECK RIDGE TRAIL

CUPPCCINO

DEPOT

http://nysparks.com/parks/attachments/ClarenceFahnestockTrailMap.pdf 

http://www.coldspringdepot.com/ordereze/default.aspx

http://www.cupoccino.com/ 

New Paltz, NY

THE TRAPEZE CLUB

New Paltz is this oasis just outside the city...far enough to feel like an escape, close enough to be able to check Facebook without incident. You can come up for the day to hike or rock climb, you can rent a house or book a hotel for the weekend, even season rentals are easy to come by. There is no limit to the number of things you can do, see, and eat. Perhaps that is why more and more urbanites are making a more permanent pilgrimage to the area.

BRIDGE OVER THE WALKILL

<GETTING THERE>

Take route 87N to exit 18, take a left onto 299 and you will be on Main Street in about a mile. Pine Hill Trailways Bus leaves from Port Authority and lets you out in the center of town.




MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE

<STAYING THERE>

As always, i recommend renting a house on craigslist or airbnb (http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/). For a good deal less effort, you could stay at the Motel Super 8. It's a minutes drive from the cafes and bars, but they have flat screen TV's, internet and modern bathrooms. On the other end of the frills-o-meter, The Mohonk Mountain House is reminiscent of the Shining (minus the scary). It's about ten mins from town, but boasts a golf course, a spa and is close to lots of hiking. The food there is amazing, sort of seasonal organic fare at a price.

<EATING THERE>

THE BISTRO

Breakfast~
The Bistro is, for lack of a more perfect word, a New Paltz institution. They put sprouts and avocado in places you would never dream. Free fills on coffee.

The Bakery on Church Street has the best bagels, breads, desserts, and a fair amount of prepared foods. Dining inside and out, inside the upstairs is kid friendly.

The Village TeaRoom is this tiny, french provincial cafe where they bake their own scones and make their own jam. Voila!


Mudd Puddle Coffee Roasters in the Water Street Market is perfect for those who drink their breakfast. They also have yummy egg sandwiches and fresh baked cookies/biscotti. Dine in or out, it's super casual. 

KARMA ROAD

Lunch~
Karma Road is the juice bar in town. They also have fresh baked goods and make amazing soups and wraps. Its all organic and vegetarian. A few small tables inside, fewer outside.


Gourmet Pizza is your typical college town pizza joint. They have the best pizza in town, as well as subs and fountain soda.


Moon Light Cafe has delicious middle eastern food, at a fair price, in a nice setting. I love the falafel platter.


Mexacali Blue is a little hole in the wall with amazing fish and mango tacos. Standing room only.


My Market on 32N is sort of a healthier take on a traditional deli...Applegate Farms, Kiss My Face, local meats and veggies


Main Course is prepared food heaven, in an ultra modern setting. The food is flawless, the prices are a little high.


Bacchus is the town tavern, with something like 400 beers to chose from and a pool hall. Popular with the climbers, it stays busy afternoon to eve.  Yummy burgers, salads and bar food, as well as some mentionable Tex-Mex.  They have something for everyone.

ROCK AND RYE

Dinner~
Rock and Rye Nestled in a beautiful old home, on a golf course, on the outskirts of the village.  The traditional decor compliments the contemporary menu.  



Anatolia has wonderfully fresh Turkish food, in a casual cafe on Main Street.  Stuffed grape leaves, turkish salad, and kebobs.  Save room for dessert!


The Gilded Otter Brewery is a monstrously big, two story brew pub, with outdoor seating. Nothing special, is how i would describe the food. But it's great for kids, large parties or watching the game. Live music on occasion.


Suruchi Indian Restaurant serves hand made, home made, Indian food, in a sweet little spot on Church Street. Ask for a side of their home made yogurt!


Hokkaido Japanese Restaurant is this quaint little sushi spot, with melt in your mouth sushi/sashimi and hot pot soups (udon/soba).

SNUGS TAVERN

Nigh Cap~
Snugs Harbor is the diviest of the dives and my personal fave. Especially anytime the college is closed. 


 


A Tavola has a small bar, that serves mostly as a waiting room for diners, but is worth the squeeze.  They make amazing aperitifs/digestifs and take their wine seriously.
 

Oasis has live music and happy hour goes til 9pm. It's a slightly less collegey crowd, than the rest.


  

LAKE MINNEWASKA

Playing~
Minnewaska State Park ($8/day to park) It takes about an hour to walk around the lake. There is a swimming area and picnic tables throughout. Before you leave check out Awosting Falls, from the lower lot.




The Rail Trail runs through New Paltz- it's great for dogs, running, walking and biking. Use http://www.gorailtrail.org to plot your course.


Bike's are easy to come by - The Bicycle Depot rents bikes/helmets at $35/day or there is Bikes That Heal, a self serve free/loan station located behind the Water Street Market.


Rock climbing is popular, thanks to The Shawangunk Ridge (aka The Gunks). If you know what you're doing, head out to the hairpin turn on 44/55. If you need lessons, stop by Rock and Snow on Main St.


The Wallkill River runs through New Paltz and is perfect for kayaking. There's a boat launch just off Plains Road, use the parking lot next to the rail trail.


Antiquing abound - Water Street market has a bunch and I like Horsefeathers Antiques, on N. Chestnut.

HUEGONOT STREET

Historic Huegonot Street is where the original settlers built their homes, back in the 15th century. If this excites you, go for the guided tour. Otherwise, take a post dinner stroll or drive.


 

Skydive The Ranch in nearby Gardiner will show you how to jump out of an airplane in an afternoon, no experience necessary ;)


Apple Hill Farm, Dressel Farm and Jenkins Farm all host PYO apples in fall.


Horseback riding- for lessons try Lucky C Stables or Payne Farm.


Yoga in abundance - Jai Ma offers Anusara classes, The Living Seed mostly Vinyasa and The Ashtanga Studio offers just that.

 
If you've got the stones, try taking lessons at the Trapeeze Club at the Center for Symbolic Studies.


Mohonk Golf Course is a stunning 18 hole course, next to the Mountain House. And New Paltz Golf Course on Huguenot Street is a public 9 hole course.

DORSKY MUSEUM

The Samuel Dorsky Museum of Art at SUNY New Paltz is petite, but definitely worth a saunter. Open wed-sun.


 




DM Weil Gallery is a large modern art gallery, a scenic drive away from town. 


Local vineyards - Adair and Robibero offer tastings and hold events.

VIEW OF THE WALKWAY FROM POUGHKEEPSIE

The Walkway over the Hudson is an old defunct railroad bridge that connects neighboring Highland to Poughkeepsie. It only takes about 15 minutes to cross it, and the views from out in the middle of the Hudson River are why you do it. If you want more of a challenge, try The Loop - the Walkway one way, then back via the Mid Hudson Bridge.


The Gunks Park at the base of the hairpin turn, on 44/55. Walk up the hill, past the scenic overlook, and you will see a trailhead to the left. This spot is perfect for cross country skis or snow shoes, because it is predominantly flat. 


Bonticou Crag (part of Mohonk Preserve) offers 360 degree views of the area and takes about an hour plus to summit. We always bring the dogs, so we skip the rock scramble (evidently the best part). To get there, take Mountain Rest Rd out to Knolls Road, Spring Farm parking area on your right ($9/day).  P.S.- you can also access Table Rock from there

  
The Nyquist Harcourt Wildlife Sanctuary is a patch of swampy land with cool views, just off Historic Huguenot Street. No fee. Wear your wellies.


There are two public pools in New Paltz - Moriello Pool is on the north end of the village, and Ulster County Pool is 4 miles away, next to the Fairgrounds.

 

Other interesting things about New Paltz:

Unison Arts and Learning Center http://www.unisonarts.org/
The Groovy Blueberry http://groovyblueberry.com/
Rhino Records http://rhinonewpaltz.com/ 
Pilates of New Paltz http://www.pilatesnewpaltz.com/


Annual events:
Beltane Festival - end of Apr.
Woodstock-New Paltz Arts and Crafts Fair - Mem day and Labor
Ulster County Fair - July 30- Aug 4
Rosendale Street Festival- Jul. 21-22
Ulster County Fair- 1st wknd in Aug
Taste of New Paltz- mid Sept.

BONTICOU CRAG

THE GUNKS

RAIL TRAIL

AWOSTING FALLS

NYQUIST-HARTCOURT

DRESSEL FARMS

WATER STREET MARKET

                                                      

VILLAGE TEAROOM